Tuesday, March 12, 2013

Last Stop, Kolkata

March 10, 2013

Our time in Calcutta was split between before Darjeeling and after Darjeeling. Though that's really not that important to know, since we haven't done too much here. The city is reminiscent of Mumbai in it's juxtaposition of grand European architecture with trash-streaked streets and poverty. In its modernity, autorickshaws have been largely replaced by classic yellow taxis. If frustration with India can be measured by how ferociously one fights with taxi drivers to get a fairly price ride out of the train station, then we might be reaching our limit. But the love-hate relationship quickly draws to a close. Tomorrow we're on a flight to Thailand!

Back to Calcutta. Rather than the Victoria Memorial, Mother Teresa's "Mother House," or the maze of New Market, the highlight of Calcutta would have to be the Paragon Hotel. On the ladder of lodgings that we've stayed in, it's one of the lowest rungs. We justified our first stay there with the fact that we were leaving for Darjeeling the next day. "It's only for one night," as our grunge travel motto goes. But hey, we're back for three more nights of bed bugs and stray cats. Gotta do it while you're young.

I'll give you a short tour:
You walk in. The security guard is sitting in his usual chair. His hair is bright orange. This is not unusual, hennaed hair is all over.
The hotel owner yells at some Chinese guy, who made the mistake of asking about the room key. Bro, you gotta bring your own LOCK.
Someone sits outside the dormitories smoking a cigarette. Its courtyard style here.
There's a large, out-of-place fish tank built into the wall. (Why?!) the nook below is devoted to a used bottle collection.
Next come the very unsound-proof community squat toilets, which make you realize the common strain of Indian food on the digestive system. Solidarity, or lack thereof...
Our room is close by. Lucky number 13, a dirty, mint green cement box with two wooden beds and questionable mattresses.

I'm serious about the "do it while you're young" thing. I walked past this scene this morning on the way to get chai, and I was strangely overcome with gratitude at being here, in this dingy hotel. Its more than that: its an international hub, a gathering of individuals that carry around padlocks and extra sheets. I don't know if I'll have the stamina for this when I'm older, and it's an enriching experience I wouldn't trade for the world. To know that you're making it across the world with the money in your belt, the necessities (and more...) on your back, and the wits experience has rewarded you with. Sometimes I feel like gameboy Mario collecting tokens of knowledge. And the graffiti on the walls of your room lets you know that you're not the only one on a quest.

Bye, India. You've certainly revealed how adaptable and enduring humans are. And if it's true that things can only be as good as they are bad, then the world can only be as colorful as it is dirty.

Alexis















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