We got into the station early, around 8:00, and we took an autorickshaw through the fields into town. Town consisted of one main street, which was still asleep when we arrived save for the hotels. With backpacks on and reservations unmade, we wandered from hotel to hotel inquiring about prices and inspecting the rooms (which eliminated most). By the time we decided to go back to place 1, we were leading a parade of touts shouting bargains and pleads. "No thank you" means little here.
As Khajuraho became more alive in the reasonable day time, it revealed itself as possibly the most aggressively touristic place we've been so far. We were driven to rooftop restaurants that offered refuge from the hassling below. I have to admit, we spent our second day hopping from one rooftop to the next - one for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and dessert. Unfortunately, the worst part of the restaurants was the food. Reliance on tourism and food quality apparently have an inverse relationship, and we found ourselves craving the flavorful dishes India provides us elsewhere.
Finally, to the good part of Khajuraho: the temples. If you take away the surrounding town, Khajuraho was one of the nicest, most well-kept sites we've been to in India. (Maybe that's what the influx of tourist money goes towards, though I'm curious as to why the town still lags miserably in improvement considering its forced popularity.) The temples are gated within grassy and shockingly green grounds, and rise majestically towards the sky. What this means is that their carvers succeeded in mimicking the Himalayas, in homage to their power. As for the content of the carvings, they succeeded at setting lots of raunchy sex in stone.
See pictures below.
What's more fascinating than sex? Watching other people fascinate at sex. As much as I loved examining the erotic carvings, I took just as much pleasure (hehe) in observing a fanny-packed group of Asian tourists take turns at wildly snapping photos of a tiny doggy-style sculpture. Or watching an old couple point to a particularly dexterous pose that they could maybe have attempted back in their prime.
For some historical background on these incredible temples:
"One thousand years ago, under the generous and artistic patronage of the Chandela Rajput kings of Central India, 85 temples, magnificent in form and richly carved, came up on one site, near the village of Khajuraho. The amazingly short span of 100 years, from 950 AD - 1050 AD, saw the completion of all the temples, in an inspired burst of creativity. Today, of the original 85, only 22 have survived the ravages of time; these remain as a collective paean to life, to joy and to creativity; to the ultimate fusion of man with his creator. Why did the Chandelas choose Khajuraho or Khajirvahila - garden of dates, as it was known then - as the site for their stupendous creations? Even in those days it was no more than a small village. It is possible given the eclectic patronage of the Chandelas and the wide variety of beliefs represented in the temples, that they had the concept of forming a seat of religion and learning at Khajuraho. It is possible that the Chandelas were also believers in the powers of Tantrism; the cult which believes that the gratification of earthly desires is a step closer to the attainment of the infinite. It is certain however, that the temples represent the expression of a highly matured civilization. Yet another theory is that the erotica of Khajuraho, and indeed of other temples, had a specific purpose. In those days when boys lived in hermitages, following the Hindu law of being 'brahmacharis' until they attained manhood, the only way they could prepare themselves for the worldly role of 'householder' was through the study of these sculptures and the earthly passions they depicted."
- MP Tourism, http://www.mptourism.com/web/explore/destinations/khajurao.aspx
Fun fact: We had dinner with a swiss couple one night. They are BICYCLING across India. Liz and I couldn't believe it. India is a massive country, with major centers connected by train tracks and roads that can not have human company for miles. Rural villages sometimes fill in gaps, but I can't imagine they are used to accommodating two white people who roll up with saddle-bagged bikes. They even biked up to Mussoorie. I complained about the freaking drive.
To mention a few of our other experiences in Khajuraho: a waiter/masseur at our hotel who insisted on giving us sample massages while we ate breakfast, a bathroom sink that drained directly onto the floor, and discovering that playing gin rummy is a wonderful way to pass the time.
Two days was plenty in Khajuraho. And we're off.
Alexis
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