We stayed in a guesthouse in the south of Delhi called KS Palace. A lovely place, but near impossible to find. Liz and I were on foot after leaving behind our broken-down rickshaw in search of this hotel when Dan and Ashley happened upon us in their car, lost as well. The sweaty, backpack-laden family reunion was not quite what I had envisioned, but it was heartfelt to witness just the same. We spent the rest of the day on sofas in the sunroom, catching up and sampling Burmese candy, compliments of Setse.
As it turned out, we needed the rest. Voyaging around Delhi as a family unit is not a task for the faint-hearted. On our first day out, we returned to Paharganj, where Liz and I have fond memories of our previous stay. I was so excited to go back to my congested backpacker haunt. It felt a little bit like going home, especially when shopkeepers recognized us and we shared nice exchanges. Main bazaar was having a quiet day, but that didn't stop it from making an impression on the rest of the family. We ate malai kofta at Tadka, collectively bought 8 pashminas in one go, drank chai on the rooftop of Sam's, and Liz scolded her family members about the principles of haggling - a solid introduction to Paharganj. We bargained a rickety car to take us to the Jama Masjid, a massive mosque in the middle of Old Delhi. We arrived at an off time and hunger drove the group to a nearby restaurant. I did make it inside just before sunset - the vast space is open to the sky and houses some of India's most known Islamic architecture. No pictures allowed, though. When I replied no to the security man who asked if I had a camera, he simple asked, "you promise?," as opposed to searching my bag. You know you're in India when...
As I previously mentioned, voyaging around Delhi as a group of five is not a task for the faint of heart. This is statement is mainly derived from the hellish journey back to KS Palace from Old Delhi on our first day out. Two cycle rickshaws, one metro ride, one cramped autorickshaw, and over an hour later, we crawled back to our rooms. With convenience and comfort trumping cheaper transportation, we piled into a car for the next day's journey, which including visiting Setse's grandfather's grave, the Indian Habitat Centre, and the cinema. On the 26th, we went sightseeing to the Lotus Temple, and then to Akshardham, a Hindu temple complex in east Delhi. The impressive central temple completed construction in 2005, and makes it easy to fantasize that you are in a different time period since most structures of its kind are now ruins. But there it stands, a pristine and impossibly intricate structure inside and out. On the flip side, some Delhiites denounce it as controversially ostentatious. Our sightseeing wrapped up at Humayun's Tomb, also known as the mini Taj Mahal. (It served as inspiration to its better-known relative.)
Delhi was essentially shut down the following day...Happy Belated Republic Day! We didn't have tickets to the parade celebration, and that was just as well. Delhi's questionable air quality had smited us all with hacking coughs, and we spent the day lounging and watching the hotel painter line the walls with flowers and paisley designs.
Before we caught our evening train on the 27th, Dan, Liz, and I made one more outing to the Qutub Minar complex. Here we saw (drumroll)...the Minar! as well as other Islamic ruins and a wrought iron pillar that is apparently a metallurgic wonder of the ancient world. Lunch was exceptional. We capitalized on our trio's openness to culinary adventure and holed up in the corner of a crowded street-side restaurant for traditional thalis. Dan said it was his favorite lunch yet.
Traveling with others has once again shed light on Liz and my style of traveling, most drastically so with Liz's family. We increasingly find, and they tell us, that we are bargain and authenticity seekers and are "aggressive" in our pursuits. One might have even called us "seasoned travelers." Life dreams becoming reality!
Love,
Alexis
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